This is a question that has been floating around for the last few years, particularly in Australia, and has never been more poignant now.
With the departure of IMG from Australian Fashion Week, and the Australian Fashion Council taking on the 2025 event as the custodians of the local fashion industry - we want to unpack the value of what was once heralded as the event of the fashion calendar.
The Runway as a Status Symbol
For decades, the runway has been a stage not just for showcasing clothes but for shaping the very identity of the fashion industry. It has historically acted as a symbol of status, elevating the brands and designers associated with it. However, with the departure of IMG from Australian Fashion Week and a rapidly evolving fashion landscape
Runway shows have always been more than a presentation of seasonal collections—they are a cultural currency. A designer’s ability to secure a spot on a major fashion week calendar, whether in Paris, Milan, or Sydney, has long been a marker of prestige.
Historically, runways drove status by:
Creating Iconic Moments: From Alexander McQueen’s theatrical spectacles to the Victoria’s Secret runway’s cultural domination, these shows solidified brands as aspirational, defining what was “in” for seasons or even years.
Gatekeeping Access: The exclusivity of runway shows, often reserved for editors, buyers, and celebrities, made them desirable and lent brands an air of untouchable sophistication.
Aligning with Key Players: Associations with high-profile models, front-row celebrities, and influential editors gave brands a stamp of approval from industry powerhouses.
For a brand, making it to the runway often meant gaining entry into a club of legitimacy and influence. But with digital media democratising access to fashion, the question of relevance has shifted from exclusivity to inclusivity.
The Changing Role of Gatekeepers
In its heyday, the runway was controlled by a select group of gatekeepers - editors, critics, and buyers - who decided which designers were worthy of attention. Their influence dictated what trends would emerge and which brands would ascend to the heights of status.
Today, the power dynamics have shifted:
Social Media’s Democratisation: Platforms like TikTok and Instagram allow consumers, influencers, and micro-communities to shape trends independently of traditional gatekeepers. A viral post can now catapult a brand to fame faster than a front-row endorsement.
Consumer-Led Conversations: Audiences are no longer passive recipients of trends but active participants in deciding what resonates. This shift has placed pressure on designers to appeal not only to industry insiders but to the broader public.
Influencers as the New Gatekeepers: Influencers have become pivotal in bridging the gap between the runway and consumers, making them key allies for brands.
Despite these changes, traditional gatekeepers still hold weight in certain circles, particularly for luxury brands. However, their role has become more collaborative, sharing influence with a new generation of digital voices.
Why the Runway Still Matters
While the nature of the runway has evolved, its importance endures—albeit in new forms. In 2025, runway shows are:
Brand Storytelling Platforms: Beyond showcasing clothes, they offer an immersive experience that communicates a brand’s ethos. Think Jacquemus presenting collections in lavender fields or Prada’s avant-garde sets that make headlines worldwide.
Cultural Credibility: The runway remains a hallmark of craftsmanship and creativity, particularly for luxury brands that rely on the tactile and experiential aspects of fashion to justify their price points.
Catalysts for Innovation: Many of the industry’s most daring and imaginative ideas are born on the runway, serving as a testing ground for trends that trickle down to high-street and consumer markets.
What’s Next for the Runway?
For the runway to stay relevant, it must evolve to meet the needs of a digitally connected and inclusivity-focused world. Here’s how brands can adapt:
Make It Accessible: Use live streams, immersive VR, or social media platforms to bring runway experiences to a global audience without compromising exclusivity.
Tell an Inclusive Story: Diversify the models, voices, and stories featured on the runway to reflect the broadening definition of what is aspirational.
Hybridise the Format: Combine traditional runways with digital-first approaches, like augmented reality lookbooks or metaverse presentations.
Elevate Sustainability: Reduce waste and environmental impact by rethinking the materials, logistics, and energy used in physical shows.
The Verdict
In 2025, the runway is no longer the sole gatekeeper of fashion but remains a vital pillar for brands seeking to establish or maintain status. It offers unparalleled opportunities for storytelling, innovation, and cultural impact. However, its role is shifting from an exclusive stage for a select few to a more inclusive platform that bridges tradition with the digital age.
The runway isn’t dead—it’s evolving. For brands, this evolution presents an exciting challenge: to find new ways to stand out while staying true to their identity. After all, in the world of fashion, relevance is the ultimate currency.
